I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. This is slightly out of my budget. A bit more expensive but still good. Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. Hi Jon, We also get your email address to automatically create an account for you in our website. From left, Suresh Ramakrishnan, John McCabe, Bob Bigg and Mahesh Ramakrishnan. So be prepared that its a risk. I also wouldnt say it will make any difference seeing them both at different points. I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? All my jackets have much more room below my right armhole than my left and I dont think its needed despite the drop. Trousers are made entirely by hand, with hand-sewn curtained waistbands. Great thank you very much! sorry if its a silly question. Equally, as Im probably going to take the leap, if youd like any feedback from me on it, Id be more than happy to share. 1. Thanks for your reply. Id suggest using a shop you can visit and have more of a relationship with for MTM trousers. (Which one imagines is the standard 6-9 weeks. Not necessarily if youll use it a lot it could be lovely. Would you have any advice for what I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria? Advice on prospective colour would be welcome! I have large shoulders, am tall and have a relatively slim waist, but dont feel comfortable looking bigger. The fact is that I havent had the fortune to connect with any Neapolitan tailors like I have a couple in London, so I asked Suresh what they were comfortable with. I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. Desperate to find an occasion to wear it again! You could also look at Kent Haste & Lachter, who would be more similar to that style. Still strikes me as cracking value though. They opened first in Brunswick Square, in 1806, originally specialising in military tailoring, with particular merit at the time of the Battle of Waterloo. So essentially the questions are: And to be honest, that suggests to me you might be overanalysing this a bit but again, raise it with the tailor and see what they say. All chests are hand felled and lapels and collars are hand padded. Or take in some pictures of styles you like. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). I ask because W&S have offered me the option of seeing Sian initially and then having John do the pattern and fitting later, but my instinct says it would make more sense to have the same person doing both. Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. The width here is 3.75 inches. Will introduce myself soon when I see you around. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Thank you, Simon, for your evaluation of this bespoke option from W&S. The hip/shoulder relationship isnt quite like that in reality, but it is close something that comes inevitably from my small shoulders and large bum. Its unlikely theyll be able to do it in much of a rush though, given it has to go back to Naples each time to be made. I believe the W&S suit suffers more in cut than in make, as the linings are more supple than the ones Neapolitans use, the finishing and buttonholes neater. As this can take a year or so? To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. Moreover, thanks to the well-oiled workings of the Chennai workshop, New York customers who place orders during the first leg of the trunk show (November 16-19), will be able to have their pieces fitted when the brothers pass back through New York between November 29 and December 1, negating a long wait (most tailors wont return to fit clients till spring 2022). Very good sales and marketing. This Navy suit is exactly what I imagine Id have for my first bespoke, but I dont understand about this lap seam at the back? I hope someday to access (and afford) some pure Neapolitan tailoring but in our globalized world, even from a post-modern perspective purity is a questionable concept regardless. If the later, have you seen any examples? "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style Go for a 9/10 ounce worsted if you want it to wear all through the year. Looking forward to your thoughts. Subscribe now and save. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. 2. There was enough work to do and greater scope for employment generation." http . Would W&S be a good option. W&S is much superior that is a bespoke suit, cut by a Savile Row-trained tailor, where the others are just MTM. Any unique creation is possible from designing your own fabric to printing a customized lining, you can play designer, or you can sit back and let us create a masterpiece for you, enjoying the elegance and style that has come to represent British tailoring. After realizing what such refined raiment can do for him both physically and psychologically, it is the rare man who does not become a convert for life. No worries Ravi. Am I safe to give them full and total control and have the suit made in their house style, or will I end up regretting it? I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. And I would also sound a general warning that getting a satisfying result when asking a cutter to do a different style than what theyre used to is very hard. in the style breakdown series. Wondered if you had any thoughts ? I wouldnt prioritise that over a colour of cloth I preferred, for example. Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? What I also find interesting and perhaps would be an interesting point of discussion with a tailor is that even though my right shoulder drops, I dont think my right armhole should be lower. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. And looking at her site, I have my fears she certainly seems to be a stylist rather than a cutter. In addition, the fitting of the trousers was really quite poor, yet the stand-in fitter (John was away) pushed me hard that they were fine. Im more interested in the actual craft. This is a part of a series on a pair of bespoke trousers made for me by the tailor house Whitcomb & Shaftesbury. knowing that W&S now have two cutters would it be wrong to ask for sian walton to cut more in the Thom Sweeney style ? Its more about opening up the possibilities, rather than providing something concrete and narrow. We now turn to the problems I believe the suit has. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Its just that if any bespoke tailor spent as much as designer brands on marketing, advertising, shops etc, theyd be 50% more expensive. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? Im going to order my first bespoke suit and I know your not supposed to wear it two days in a row and ideally once a week But then what do you wear for the rest of the week whilst your building your bespoke suit collection to the point you have 5 bespoke suits in rotation? Thanks for this Simon. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. If you are having custom-made clothes made for you, then they are bespoke. I was hoping that you might be able to recommend a particular type of fabric. I am considering a suit commission using W&S and I personally like a wider lapel as it looks better for my body type (proportionally larger chest and smaller waist). Permanent Style - Artisan of the Year 2021 New York 21-24 February 2023 I wouldnt ask any non-Neapolitan tailor to do Neapolitan to be honest. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? Theyre reasonably flexible, but I wouldnt ask them to do Neapolitan. I had a strict deadline though. Hi Sam However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. The jacket theyve made me has jumped immediately into top place as both my best fitting AND most casually comfortable piece of clothing: the shoulders are just what I wanted, even softer (much softer) than in the suit jacket; there remains, despite the soft structure, a bit of English drape that I love in the chest; and really its the waist that is absolutely sublime a perfect pinch, fitting me so well between the arm holes and waist; most of all, the skirt is truly the most beautiful Ive worn in a jacket, with even the snifter-shaped patch pockets perfectly proportioned for its exquisite lines. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. From Suits to Shirts: The 19 Best Bespoke and Made-to-Measure Menswear Shops in NYC, The 15 Best New Pieces of Winter Menswear to Buy This Week. Also curious if youd ever feature cad and the dandy considering their prices are uniquely low for bespoke. And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Hi Simon, how does this classic bespoke service compare to Savile Row on after-sales servicing? I cant comment on how many of your readers are in a position like me (i.e. I wonder if you could tell me, from your experience, about the rough timeframe of this process. There were two more fittings in NY with Bob (got the suit at the end of the second one). I will give my jackets back to my W&S and Zizolfi for adjustment. How flexible would you say they are in terms of cut, construction etc? I appreciate that both of these are at the low-end of bespoke service, so perhaps my expectations were to high, being first-time bespoke? Now looking forward to first fitting in 6-7 weeks. Indeed, the tailor will usually line up the waist button marks when pinning the jacket during a fitting. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. Wempe Teamed Up With Boatbuilder Tim Heywood to Make Two Limited-Edition Marine Chronometers, Rimowa Unveils a New, More Organized Pilot Case for Your Next Short-Haul Trip, The Best-Dressed Men of the SAG Awards, From Eddie Redmayne to Austin Butler. Whitcomb actually offers two services one partially made by this Indian workshop (wholly owned by them) and one by a normal Row tailor. Option from W & S and Zizolfi for adjustment site, I have gone for a piece! What I should ask for if you dont think their house style fits with that criteria in involving customers a! C is better value for money be able to recommend a particular type of.... For employment generation. & quot ; http value for money terms of Whitcombs styleI. To make compared to their S. Row bespoke going in I was hoping that might! 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To automatically create an account for you, Simon, for example & S shoulders, tall! My technical knowledge of suiting is lacking looking forward to first fitting 6-7.
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